Orrin Coley Climbing Adventure: January 2014

So recently I've been considering my aims for 2013. Which did I achieve during the year? Which hadn't been achieved? All these thoughts have been swirling around my head for the last few weeks and I've come to decide that I have had possibly my most successful year in my life as a climber yet, in terms of competitions, grades and more importantly, enjoying myself.

At the start of the year I had set myself one pretty big goal, which I wasn't even sure I could do. But that was part of the challenge. Pushing myself beyond what I can do and coming out stronger because of it. This year my goal was to achieve what I like to call The Triple 8's. Basically to me this meant doing at least an 8a route outside, and 8A boulder outside and getting 8 seconds on the speed climbing wall.
I had the confidence that I could do an 8a route, as in the past I had done many of that grade indoors and even a couple 8b's too. But this year I was mainly focusing on bouldering, so I had let my stamina slip a little bit. It involved me having to do occasional training sessions to keep my base level of stamina at a decent level, and when the chance of a trip to Kilnsey popped up, I couldn't say no! The aim was to climb The Bulge 8a, a classic line about in the middle of the glorious crag. I went with my friend Tom Bonnert, who had a score to settle with the same climb after spending many sessions trying it in the past. I was confident, he knew the route like the back of his hand and with his help I could do it. Not long passed before be finally manged it and with his help and the desire to finally do an 8a route the next day so did I. I had completed one part of my Triple 8 goal on the 19th of July 2013.

Next up on the agenda was an 8A boulder. I knew I would struggle with this, as it involved finding a problem that was just perfect for me. I have constantly been improving this year but I was unsure if I was actually strong enough to do something of this grade. The only climb that came to mind was Ben's Roof Extension 8A. I was scared about climbing this. I had spent a VERY long time working Ben's Roof and got an unpleasant mix up of emotions while doing so, the problem no longer was a fun thing to try it became a full out desire that I actually had to do it. And I never wanted to be in that situation again. But on arriving at Raven Tor once again in the summer with a very good group of friends I decided I'd give it a go, if the original felt fun to climb. I arrived and straight away pulled on getting the Retro Flash of it. That was it. I had to do the Extension now, there was no way I couldn't. I crawled deep into the cave and examined the holds, realising how hard it looked.Yet still possible. Unfortunately that day most the holds where damp that far back so I gave up and went to search for other problems... But a few day's later we returned once again and this time the holds where dry. Myself and Jonny White threw ourselves at it and started to see some progression, even coming off right at the end a couple times, but sadly I became too tired and couldn't continue. This was the breaking point for me, I lost myself in that cave once again and couldn't handle it. Worried that I might not return for months if we couldn't go back the next day, worried that maybe it's just too hard for me and worried that I was had completely lost myself in a problem once again... That evening I was quieter than usual and the next day I was down as we had agreed previously to go to a different crag for our final day. But as we left it started to rain. Where we where meant to be going was not sheltered from the rain. And suddenly Raven Tor was mentioned, "The crag that's always dry!" I was ready and determined. We arrived and once again, I Retro Flashed the original. Feeling confident I started throwing myself at the climb, cautious of staying calm I took many rests and went for walks to try and control my emotions. And after a while with some determination and a bucket of chalk I finally managed it. Latching the final hold I felt a weight lift of my shoulders and a calmness sweep over me, I shouted with joy and was finally able to sit down and be happy. I had completed a second part of my Triple 8 goal on the 9th of August 2013.
Finally was the aim of getting 8 seconds on the speed wall. This was a more difficult goal to achieve as up until September the closest speed wall was in Ratho, but not Awesome Wall's opened up a wall in Sheffield I have a much more convenient centre to train at! I've been consistant on the wall getting a new pb every time I have trained or competed on one and have slowly been decreasing my time all year. I had hoped to get sub 9 seconds during the British Championships but sadly I only managed 9.17 seconds. So a few weeks later I returned and managed a time of 8.94 seconds then mere moments later improved on it yet again getting 8.90 seconds! Success! My Triple 8 goal had finally been completed on the 26th of October 2013.

Since completing this I have been given the suggestion of completing an E8 as well. At first I just passed it off as nothing, I'm not a Trad climber and I had never had that much interest in becoming one! But it's been stuck in the back of my mind for a while now and I've began to really consider it. So during 2014 I'm going to attempt to find an E8 that I could do...

Finally I have set my main goals for 2014... They are pretty out there but I am convinced if I put the effort in I can achieve them. First I want to boulder an 8B, I already have a problem in mind that I have been working for quite some time now - Keen Roof at Raven Tor. I've done every move and linked it in two halves so if all goes well it could go! Secondly I've realised recently it's all well and good bouldering hard problems but I'd feel bad if I didn't put myself out there and have a smash at a hard route too. So I'm going to attempt at leading an 8c route outdoors as well...

Sadly one of my main goals throughout 2013 was never achieved, and that was to make it onto the British Junior Bouldering Team. I have been quite disheartened at not making the cut and even struggled with a complete loss of motivation for some time. But more recently I have been achieving things that mere months ago I couldn't even come close to doing. In my training, competing or outdoor climbing I have seen improvements in all aspects. I even managed what I consider my best competition result ever in a recent round of Blokfest at Westway, finishing third place! And to top it off I have been selected as part of the 2014 British Senior Bouldering Squad. That was unexpected, but possibly the best news I received all year.

So I guess it's been a good year really, no complaints! I can't express how much I appreciate Beyond Hope for supporting me all year with Evolv, prAna and Metolius. My Parents and family for always being there to help me (I'm pleased to say I won't be asking for lifts anymore since I got a car for my birthday!)

Here are some of the highlights of my year: