Font Point Three

Since my first trip to Fontainebleau I've been hooked and a year since that fateful trip I was already on a voyage to my third trip there... Now I'd imagine I'm going to end up visiting the beautiful forest countless times in my life and climb numerous climbs, hard and easy. So quite frankly I think that would become boring to read about unless I do something pretty damn hard! Unfortunately I don't personally think I made an spectacular accents while there but there where a small few which I am very proud of...

On the second day of the trip I felt like I was on fire, We started out at Apremont where I flashed Centaure 7B which is a cool overhang and very indoor style boulder. I then went on to repeat Sitting bull 7C on my second attempt. Next it was over to Crazy Horse 7B which felt like a typical competition style boulder problem that I  flashed, I then went to try the 7B+ extension to it which I also flashed! Moving on from there went to Rocher Aux Sabots where I had unfinished business with Salle Gosse 7C which luckily I managed to do!

On the fifth day we got up at half five in the morning and risked the sub zero temperatures of Bas Cuvier. I had my mind set on La Berezina 7C which I'd had a good play on with Gaz Parry the day before. He was kind enough to share all the beta and thankfully on that cold morning I managed to send!

So in my mind those are the moments from that trip that I count as big achievements. During my time there I had some good attempts at Dual 8a, Salle Gosse assis 8a and La Berizina Carnage Combo assis 8a. I feel very confident given good weather and plenty of time those will get sent at the next opportunity...

Thanks a lot to everyone who made it a good trip and to Beyond Hope who kindly supported me with a brilliant new Metolius Boss Hogg pad, some funky prAna T-shirts, Mojo Shorts and a fantastic pair of Stretch Zion Pants. Hands down the best trousers I've ever had the pleasure of climbing in.

Myself and Tom Bonnert (Blog here) made a short ten minute video of our trip which I hope gives a better representation of what it was we got up to!

Stepping It Up

So on the 23rd of February I attended the GB Bouldering Team world cup selection event at The Castle in London. It was a pretty intense event and our results would be a huge factor of whether or not we would be selected to go to any world cups. My run up to the event had been very similar to how I would prepare for any other competition, I trained hard and like any comp I do I'm in it to win it. The only difference with this was I had to accept the reality that I couldn't win it. Having recently gotten onto the Senior Bouldering Team I've learnt a lot about my own ability and how far behind I am from the rest of the Team. So my main goal was to give it everything I possibly had, keep a cool head about it all and to have fun!

The format of the day was we had 2 rounds consisting of 4 boulders each in which we had five minutes on, five minutes off. I had been quite nervous about this as climbing at my maximal ability for such a long period of time had always trashed me very quickly in the past. Even though I had specifically been focusing on improving this aspect of my climbing I was still worried it wouldn't be enough. As it turns out during the whole day I can't think of a time I fell off because I got pumped, I fell off because the climbs where freaking hard!

We had no viewing time for the problems, you just ran out, had a good look then threw yourself at it with everything you had. While sat in isolation the first few climbers all returned quite fast so I knew the first problem was do-able. Once it was my turn I ran out and looked it over. Basically it was a dyno from two volumes to a big undercut with one hand and the other cupping over the top of a volume, then a deadpoint to the finishing jug. I pulled on pretty quickly, confident that I could do it and flashed it with relative ease!

The day went on like that until we had climbed (Or attempted to) everything. I had no such success as I did with the very first boulder other than scoring a few more bonus points. Overall I was very pleased with how I climbed, potentially I could have done better but that's the thing with climbing. There are a lot of "What if's" and I have learnt that you can't put yourself down for not topping everything or for having a little slip and coming off a climb, because these things happen. Sometimes they could have been avoided, but if you can walk away knowing exactly what it is that you did wrong then there's nothing to be upset about! You can focus to improve that and next time, if you put in enough effort it won't happen again. Similarly if you put in everything you possibly could yet still fell then there's no point getting yourself down. You just know you need to get better. I've been climbing for 12 years now and have been competing for 7 of those years and it's only been recently that I've really learnt to understand that...

Along with the World Cup Selection event I've taken part in many other competitions and have been learning a lot throughout them all. First of all for the first time I have taken part in the Blokfest series. Honestly, this was one of the best bouldering series I've ever done. The problems are all so well set and the atmosphere for the finals (which I made once, finishing 3rd) was phenomenal. Overall I finished in 6th place in the senior category. Which I'm pretty pleased with as it was a very strong group of guys!
I have also taken part in the pretty chilled out Climbing Station winter bouldering league where after doing all rounds I finished in a comfortable 1st place, over a hundred points ahead of 2nd! This event was a good opportunity for me to get practice flashing some pretty spicy blocs, anyone who has entered one of The Stations winter leagues will know Tom Randall loves setting some confusing problems!
Finally and most recently was The CWIF. Wow was that an awesome comp! Some of the best problems I've had the pleasure of climbing on in the Qualification. Nothing necessarily brick hard but you really had to think about what it was you where doing. I finished with a decent score of 254 points, placing me in 29th place in a very strong crowd of the top British climbers and some top of the top climbers in the World too! Unfortunately that wasn't enough to make Semi Finals but I had made 2 slip ups which should have been avoided ultimately cost me a place.

On the Sunday after I decided it was a perfect time to return back to my project... Keen Roof 8B at Raven Tor. I'd spent some time away from it considering whether it was better to continually throw myself at it or just become stronger until I know it will be finished. Unfortunately after some time away I hadn't kept it fresh enough in my head and looking back I made it very hard for myself using some dodgy sequence... But even so I could feel it on the tip of my fingers, I strongly believe still that I will do it. It's just a matter of when?

During the week after The CWIF I had the opportunity, being part of the Senior Bouldering Team to have a couple training sessions with some of the other International Teams who had came to the UK to compete in CWIF! This was pretty intense and quite an exiting prospect for me, getting to climb with people who I have been watching crush on the World Cup scene for some time. The Works had their competition wall set with around 30 World Cup standard boulders for us to climb, including the CWIF finals problems (Some of which I topped!) This was a fantastic experience and I feel like I've learnt a lot getting to climb with some of the best climbers in the World.
I'm now more psyched than ever to keep on improving and one day be standing shoulder to shoulder with these people. (Which might not be long as I'm planning on entering a World Cup in May!)

2013 In a (Large) Nutshell

So recently I've been considering my aims  for 2013. Which did I achieve during the year? Which hadn't been achieved? All these thoughts have been swirling around my head for the last few weeks and I've come to decide that I have had possibly my most successful year in my life as a climber yet, in terms of competitions, grades and more importantly, enjoying myself.

At the start of the year I had set myself one pretty big goal, which I wasn't even sure I could do. But that was part of the challenge. Pushing myself beyond what I can do and coming out stronger because of it. This year my goal was to achieve what I like to call The Triple 8's. Basically to me this meant doing at least an 8a route outside, and 8A boulder outside and getting 8 seconds on the speed climbing wall.
I had the confidence that I could do an 8a route, as in the past I had done many of that grade indoors and even a couple 8b's too. But this year I was mainly focusing on bouldering, so I had let my stamina slip a little bit. It involved me having to do occasional training sessions to keep my base level of stamina at a decent level, and when the chance of a trip to Kilnsey popped up, I couldn't say no! The aim was to climb The Bulge 8a, a classic line about in the middle of the glorious crag. I went with my friend Tom Bonnert, who had a score to settle with the same climb after spending many sessions trying it in the past. I was confident, he knew the route like the back of his hand and with his help I could do it. Not long passed before be finally manged it and with his help and the desire to finally do an 8a route the next day so did I. I had completed one part of my Triple 8 goal on the 19th of July 2013.

Next up on the agenda was an 8A boulder. I knew I would struggle with this, as it involved finding a problem that was just perfect for me. I have constantly been improving this year but I was unsure if I was actually strong enough to do something of this grade. The only climb that came to mind was Ben's Roof Extension 8A. I was scared about climbing this. I had spent a VERY long time working Ben's Roof and got an unpleasant mix up of emotions while doing so, the problem no longer was a fun thing to try it became a full out desire that I actually had to do it. And I never wanted to be in that situation again. But on arriving at Raven Tor once again in the summer with a very good group of friends I decided I'd give it a go, if the original felt fun to climb. I arrived and straight away pulled on getting the Retro Flash of it. That was it. I had to do the Extension now, there was no way I couldn't. I crawled deep into the cave and examined the holds, realising how hard it looked.Yet still possible. Unfortunately that day most the holds where damp that far back so I gave up and went to search for other problems... But a few day's later we returned once again and this time the holds where dry. Myself and Jonny White threw ourselves at it and started to see some progression, even coming off right at the end a couple times, but sadly I became too tired and couldn't continue. This was the breaking point for me, I lost myself in that cave once again and couldn't handle it. Worried that I might not return for months if we couldn't go back the next day, worried that maybe it's just too hard for me and worried that I was had completely lost myself in a problem once again... That evening I was quieter than usual and the next day I was down as we had agreed previously to go to a different crag for our final day. But as we left it started to rain. Where we where meant to be going was not sheltered from the rain. And suddenly Raven Tor was mentioned, "The crag that's always dry!" I was ready and determined. We arrived and once again, I Retro Flashed the original. Feeling confident I started throwing myself at the climb, cautious of staying calm I took many rests and went for walks to try and control my emotions. And after a while with some determination and a bucket of chalk I finally managed it. Latching the final hold I felt a weight lift of my shoulders and a calmness sweep over me, I shouted with joy and was finally able to sit down and be happy. I had completed a second part of my Triple 8 goal on the 9th of August 2013.
Finally was the aim of getting 8 seconds on the speed wall. This was a more difficult goal to achieve as up until September the closest speed wall was in Ratho, but not Awesome Wall's opened up a wall in Sheffield I have a much more convenient centre to train at! I've been consistant on the wall getting a new pb every time I have trained or competed on one and have slowly been decreasing my time all year. I had hoped to get sub 9 seconds during the British Championships but sadly I only managed 9.17 seconds. So a few weeks later I returned and managed a time of 8.94 seconds then mere moments later improved on it yet again getting 8.90 seconds! Success! My Triple 8 goal had finally been completed on the 26th of October 2013.

Since completing this I have been given the suggestion of completing an E8 as well. At first I just passed it off as nothing, I'm not a Trad climber and I had never had that much interest in becoming one! But it's been stuck in the back of my mind for a while now and I've began to really consider it. So during 2014 I'm going to attempt to find an E8 that I could do...

Finally I have set my main goals for 2014... They are pretty out there but I am convinced if I put the effort in I can achieve them. First I want to boulder an 8B, I already have a problem in mind that I have been working for quite some time now - Keen Roof at Raven Tor. I've done every move and linked it in two halves so if all goes well it could go! Secondly I've realised recently it's all well and good bouldering hard problems but I'd feel bad if I didn't put myself out there and have a smash at a hard route too. So I'm going to attempt at leading an 8c route outdoors as well...

Sadly one of my main goals throughout 2013 was never achieved, and that was to make it onto the British Junior Bouldering Team. I have been quite disheartened at not making the cut and even struggled with a complete loss of motivation for some time. But more recently I have been achieving things that mere months ago I couldn't even come close to doing. In my training, competing or outdoor climbing I have seen improvements in all aspects. I even managed what I consider my best competition result ever in a recent round of Blokfest at Westway, finishing third place! And to top it off I have been selected as part of the 2014 British Senior Bouldering Squad. That was unexpected, but possibly the best news I received all year.

So I guess it's been a good year really, no complaints! I can't express how much I appreciate Beyond Hope for supporting me all year with Evolv, prAna and Metolius. My Parents and family for always being there to help me (I'm pleased to say I won't be asking for lifts anymore since I got a car for my birthday!)

Here are some of the highlights of my year:

Coming 2nd in the overall JBBC

Winning the BSCC for the 2nd time - Photo Matteus Barefoot

Coming 3rd in Westway's Blokfest

Going to Bahrain and getting to inspire so many people

Climbing Ben's Roof 7c+ and Ben's Roof Extension 8a

Going to Font for the first (And 2nd) time

And to top it off climbing Brass Monkeys 7c on my third go

Stay psyched! Hope everyone has a great year!

- Orrin

http://beyondhope.co.uk/

http://betamonkeys.co.uk/

http://www.thetowerclimbingcentre.co.uk/

http://www.theclimbingstation.com/

British Lead and Speed Championships 2013

So it was that time of year again where the Lead and Speed Championships where just beyond the horizon. About a month or so before the event I had decided to enter the leading event as I had nothing to loose and if anything training for it would only help improve my bouldering. So I trained, several times a week for the month running up to it I had countless stamina sessions and laps around circuit boards until the weekend of competing was just around the corner.
Saturday started as any other comp day, I woke up got ready and drove to the new Awesome Walls in Sheffield. It was great to see the wall finished and it did look amazing, the place is huge! And they still have more to add to it?!?! I really can't wait to train there more in the future. So once I arrived I started reading my routes and was surprised by the fact I didn't feel too worried. I'd normally be nervous reading them, but it had really set in that this was all just going to be for fun. There was no pressure, and nothing to get worked up about like I would in the past. The first route looked quite soft and once I got on it I realised it really was. The holds where all positive and I climbed fast up to the last 3 moves where the crux was, it involved matching on a very thin hold then doing a big pull to the next hold. I rested for a moment and pulled through it and continued to top it out.

Route two - Photo Pete Wuensche

The next route looked a lot harder as it went up the side of their main overhang and was very long. I knew I'd have to fight for it to stand any chance of actually topping it but it looked like a fantastic climb so I got quite excited about the prospect of actually climbing it. I tied on, chalked up and started climbing. The routes went fairly smoothly until I realised I couldn't actually rest in any of the places I had previously decided to rest at. I stayed calm and continued climbing hoping I'd find somewhere to just relax at for even a moment, but no such place seemed to arrive. I started to get pumped and my elbows began to slowly point out, I surprised myself by getting much further than I thought I would by fighting through the pump for a good few moves until I arrived at the traverse out onto the roof before my arms gave out and I fell. This luckily put me in just a high enough position to scrape into the finals in 4th place.

Final route - Photo Pete Wuensche

Next up all the finalists went into isolation to wait for the finals to start. This was arguably the best isolation I've ever had as there was so much room! Everyone had space to climb and warm up, it really helped me to stay relaxed and warm. After going out for our observation period to view the final climb I had a long wait till my group could start. I repeatedly ran though my sequence for the climb until it was time to climb. I walked out and pulled onto the route. It immediately felt hard for me as again I couldn't rest, I hadn't built up enough stamina in the month previous to be able to climb for that long. I managed alright but the pump took over and as I deadpointed for a hold I didn't sink it deep enough and slid off it unable to correct myself. So overall I finished 4th, but I was pleased with this as I didn't think I'd stand much of a chance before hand.

Myself, Jonny White and Will Smith discussing our final route - Photo Pete Wuensche

Sunday was over to the the senior lead event and the speed climbing. I had decided to not bother entering the lead event since I didn't really care for it that much and I'd rather do well in the speed. After a very long wait before I could start the speed climbing finally kicked off, but this year was different for me as I was competing in the senior category... I took it seriously and isolated myself in the bouldering wall to warm up, finding easy climbs to practice sprinting up followed by shuttle runs across the room. I did this for around half an hour, then our practice runs on the actual speed wall began. My times where average for me, getting around 10.5 seconds. Once they where over the qualifications began. My first run I got a time of 10.61 seconds, my second 10.26 seconds. This placed me into the next round in first place. I still was not pleased with my time as I knew I could go much faster, wishing I'd been aloud more practice runs before hand I tried to work out what my issue could be. I listed them in my head: I haven't been on a speed wall in months, My footwork was off and I was missing holds, I was nervous. So I sat and calmed myself down and decided to focus on placing my feet every time I climbed making sure they landed on every hold. My next run I once again got 10.26 seconds which placed me into the quarter finals in 1st. Stressed that I hadn't improved even though I'd been staying focused I lost my calm and got 11.05 seconds. Alarm bells started to ring in my head that I was doing something wrong until I realised what the real issue was. I was expecting too much of myself. I was convinced I could do better when maybe after some time off, I physically couldn't? So I calmed myself down once again and focused on just making it up the wall with a smile on my face. As it happens I'd gotten to the semi finals in 1st once again and on my next run something clicked. I don't know if it was because I'd finally accepted that maybe I couldn't do better or that I truly was focused now but I'd sped up. A lot. I raced up the wall in 9.37 seconds, leaving my opponent way behind in the process. Content that I'd got a new personal best and truly hadn't lost and speed on the wall I was finally happy and moved into the finals confident on going even faster. I was keen and I think everyone else was too, curious if I really could go faster. Ready at the bottom of the wall for my final race of the day, I placed my hands and right foot on the wall waiting to start. The time had started and I left the floor, slowly at first but confident now. My feet hit the holds and I started to storm up the wall, getting faster and faster until I hit the top and my time was called out. Horns blowing and people cheering my time was called out... 9.17 seconds! I new personal best! And also unknown to many people another British Record... But the truth is I know I can go faster. Much faster. And with Awesome Walls opened now only an hour and a half away from me I don't think it will take much longer until I do. I'm planning on training as much as I can there and I'm not going to stop until I'm as fast as I can be.

Calum Forsyth 2nd, Myself 1st and Tom Bonnert 3rd - Photo Matteus Barefoot

Full BMC report of the event and results here

And here is a video of my final race, courtesy of my Dad!

Thanks for reading, stay psyched!

Summer of Crush Part 3

But my trip to Font did not conclude my Summer I'm afraid. You see I got a real taste for outdoor climbing during my trips to the Peak and Font and I couldn't seem to get enough of it. So I adventured further... There is a local crag to me which has recently gained popularity known as Forest Rock and I took multiple trips there to try and tick some of the hard new climbs which have been put up, My first goal was Cracked up 7b+, I was really keen to flash this as I'd never flashed something so hard and it looked within my ability but allas I was lead astray by false tickmarks... And in the end it went third go. Next on the list was Own Narrative 7c, this is a cool power problem straight of an overhanging wall. After some working I managed to power through it and matched the finishing hold, pleased with my efforts I decided to give Enchantress 7c+ an attempt. I've been keen to try this for a long time and was so happy to finally be climbing it. But it's hard, and sadly my biceps where no match for it. The thing with climbing at Forest Rock is that it's basically jug hauling but most the holds are undercuts from above so it's all very powerful.

Enchantress 7c+

A few days later I returned with Tom who has never actually been there before even though he lives equally as close to there as I. He was keen to give cracked up an attempt as he wanted to finally break his boundary and get a 7b+ done. And after some working, he did! It was great and I think he's pretty pleased about it. I spent most my time working a problem called Magician 7c/+ I had done the stand start known as Sorcerer Direct 6c+ a few years ago and was keen to give this powerful monster a go. It did not disappoint, it was ridiculously hard for me but after a few hours it went and I was beyond pleased!

Ticklist:
Magician 7c/+
Own Narrative 7c
Cracked up 7b+

Down by the beach...

Once again... It does not end there... I still had that thirst for real rock, it wouldn't go away. It felt like I was addicted, I couldn't rest. I couldn't spend a single day without looking in a guide looking for somewhere to go. I just wanted to be out, on my own, with friends, it didn't matter anymore. I needed to be on rock. Luckily, Jonny was keen. So within a couple days I was packed and headed to Parisella's cave with him. The main goal was to do Rock Atrocity 7c and once we arrived after a short warm up, that's what I did! I worked out the moves and pulled on, I was so excited to be on this classic Moffatt line. The moves felt great just pulling through the roof but sadly I dropped off the last hold like so many people before me. I worked the move from there and found a simple sequence through it but every time I pulled on I forgot it! After four or five attempts though it finally went. I was pleased, the next day could be what ever I wanted it to be now.
Later on I managed Clever Beaver 7a+ and was surprised! I thought I'd enjoy climbing here much more than I did, with it being limestone. But I couldn't get on with anything until our second day where we where already tired from trying all the hard climbs there we realised there's a fantastic extension to Rock Atrocity called Hatch Attrocity V11 and it felt amazing! We both did it in two halves but where too tired to really finish it off. So that's the plan. I will go back one day soon and climb it! I'm pleased with all the projects I've found for myself and that last trip to Parisella's really calmed the fire inside me that was craving the real rock... For now...

Ticklist:
Rock Atrocity 7c
Clever Beaver 7b+

Summer of Crush Part 2

After a weeks rest from the Peak District I had packed my bags once again and was heading to Fontainebleau for the second time this year. Before leaving I had set myself some goals while there and unfortunately they didn't go to plan, I have been trying to understand why and in the end I think it was a mix of me not being physically strong enough and it being way too hot for me. But even though I did not manage what I had hoped for it was an amazing trip and I am proud of what I achieved in the end.

Day One
Not long after arriving at our Gite we had decided to head out to a nearby crag and have a short session before heading home and going to bed as we had been travelling all day. The nearest place we found was a small place called Rocher Greau. It was dark once we arrived and the bugs had started to appear and where biting us left, right and center. I had a play at some 6's which where fun then tried my hand at classic 7c called Megalithe. I gave it a good few goes and eventually found some progression on it, but with the bugs attacking me, tiredness from the days drive and the rock feeling greasy from the heat I eventually had to call it a day and not long after that we all left.

Day 2

Partage 8a+

Buthiers was the destination as I strongly believed everyone would have fun trying Magic Bus 7b which I had done in Easter during my last trip. Once we arrived put the pads under I gave it a go and got my foot sequence wrong and fell on the last hard move. After a couple minutes rest I got on it again and sent it, soon after this Jonny and Tom also managed it got their first good tick for the week. Not long after this I went on a hunt to find Partage 8a+ which I knew was nearby. I think I knew I'd never do it, but I was still psyched to give it a good go. Once I found it I realised there was a 7a next to it called Attention Chef d'Oeuvre which looked like a cool line. Once I found them I ran back to the others to see if I could convince anyone to come down and try them and to see if I could take some of our pads too. Jonny and Tom followed and I ran on ahead with a pad way too keen to get on the 7a. I arrived got my boots on, chalked up and pulled on with only one pad... Being a relatively highball line this probably wasn't the best of ideas and as I climbed and threw for the last hold I realised it was, slipping out of the slopper part of it I yelped and fell to the floor landing one foot on the pad the other on the floor. Jonny and Tom rushed round expecting to find me broken on the floor yet somehow I was fine, I tested my foot and was shocked. I think from now on I might try and be a bit more sensible when it comes to pads and spotters... After a few more attempts I eventually sent it and then moved on to give Partage a few attempts, I knew I couldn't spend long on it as my skin was really poor and already shredding. I worked out some beta so I could actually get off the floor but with the tiny holds and it being too hot I couldn't get any further, I think this is one I'm going to save for when it's colder. From there we went on a hunt to find  more boulders and eventually came across Lady Big Claque 7a, which was a pretty inspiring overhanging line slapping round corners to catch the holds. I pulled on and just missed a hold near the top, after a short rest I got on and managed it fairly easily.

Day Three 

L'Ange Gardien 7c

We headed to Bas Cuvier and after trying my hand at many climbs I eventually found Quartier Chaud 7a+ which climbed a highball arete with a dodgey landing. After a few attempts I managed to get past where I had been falling and pulled up to the thankfully easy top out. I gained some motivation after this and tried the highball 7c slab around the corner from it called L'Ange Gardien I was constantly finding progression on this getting higher each time until eventually I could climb no higher, I struggled to hold on to the tiny holds and found my feet slipping off the microscopic features. I eventually realised I was wasting valuable skin and gave up, but not before flashing a couple 6's around the corner from it...







Day Four
We started out heading to Rocher Canon to give Levitation 7a+ an attempt, I was super keen to flash this and spent the evening before watching videos and finding out everything I could about it. After getting lost trying to find it we eventually came across it and started to warm up. I watched everyone give it a few goes and worked out what I thought was the best way. I pulled up and instantly knew I was not warm enough, I climbed shakily and felt tense and when throwing around the top for a pocket to top out on I slipped and got frustrated with myself. After a rest and some shaking out I once again pulled on and got it second attempt.
After a while we gave up looking for problems and went to Franchard Isatis where I managed Mur Lombard 7a+ on my second attempt, it was a fantastic vertical wall with thin holds going straight up it It would have been amazing to flash but I was still pleased to manage such a fantastic line. After that I managed Lapin ou Canard 7a 2nd attempt and shortly after flashed a strange 6c called La Power-Lolotte / le Surplomb Statique.

Day Five

Le Toit du Cul De Chien 7a

After another lazy morning, we got up and headed to Cul De Chien where we headed straight to Le Toit du Cul De Chien, also known as Cul De Chien Roof 7a. After seriously warming up (I was very commited to flashing this) we sorted the pads out and Jonny was first up. I was paying attention to every move he made as much as possible and sadly he slipped, but I believe he has done it before so it wasn't too bad. Next I stood up to it, pulled on and felt amazed at the moves, they where fantastic. After reaching round the lip I realised I was better off campusing as there where no good foot holds really. I'm particularly proud of this flash. We tried a supposedly 7a slab called Belle Lurette further back a little while later which I disappointingly got 2nd go. After getting bored at Cul De Chien we walked back to Rocher Aux Sabots with the aim of trying Jet Set 7a and Graviton 7a. We all had a bit of trouble working out the footwork for Jet Set but once we discovered it almost everyone managed it. What a brilliant climb! Next we moved to Graviton, where I was once again, keen for the flash and after watching everyone on it for a while I gave it a go. It was a real struggle, I felt my forearms pump out on it as I clearly hadn't paid enough attention, but luckily I gave it a good fight and came out on top. I spent a long time working a 7c on the back of the Graviton boulder (Can't seem to find the name unfortunately) and felt very close, but I've came to realise the last move is actually the crux of the boulder. And I have a Feeling lots of people have "came close" to finishing that problem... Moving on from my disappointment with it we walked up to Bioethique 7a+ which I felt must be soft as I flashed it with ease.

Day Six
We headed back to Franchard Isatis as there was lots for everyone to do there and it turned out to be a good decision because everyone got something done! First up on my list was Ah Plus Facile 7a+ which I couldn't quite manage a couple days prior. But after some more working I came out with a better sequence for myself and managed it. After I managed two other 7a's called Panzer and Abdolobotmoy. Later that night, me Tom, Tash and Jen headed out to Drei Zennin to have a spot of night bouldering. The aim was to find Diversion, 7b that I did in Easter so Tash could try and finish it and Tom and Jen could give it a go. Somehow my navigational skills turned super human and in pitch black late at night I led us straight to the climb! We where all in shock as my skills at finding climbs so far had been below average... After spending a while working it out I got it down again and cruised it and soon after Tom managed it too. Tash got a lot further and Jen put up a good fight, hopefully they will get in next time.

Day Seven
The aim was to go to 95.2, it took us a while but we eventually found it but it was so hot and had very limited problems. I managed Retour Aux Sources 7a after a few attempts which I was pleased about, it was tough in the heat. From there we just sort of walked around and got lost, eventually finding ourselves at the edge of an area known as Rocher Des Souris where we found an amazing Morpho problem called Vis-a-Vis, words can't describe this climb if I'm honest it looked easy, the holds where huge. But it was just such an odd climb! I'm pleased to have even managed it! If you ever manage to find it, I highly recommend it. Finally we came across a small boulder with a 6c+ called Yoga on it. I wasn't too keen for it but the 7b I was working ended up being too hard and I managed to flash Yoga instead! To end the trip we all agreed to go out night bouldering at Canche Aux Mercies, where one of my nemesis's from the easter trip lurked. La Grande Marche Prolongee 7b. I thought it would be a good sport for everyone as the original version of this problem was a great 7a+ for everyone. Props to Jonny for not only flashing the 7a+ but then stepping it up and flashing the 7b too, It got me so psyched as I could not manage the 7b at all but after seeing him manage it, I pulled on and topped it! A good success to end the trip with!

And that concluded to amazing trip to The wonderful forest of Fontainebleau. Overall I was quite pleased with what I managed, it would have been nice to get some harder climbs but you can't have everything you want so I'm going to take pleasure in the fact I had a great holiday with some amazing friends!

Ticklist:

La Grande Marche Prolongee 7b
Ah Plus Facile 7a+
Bioethique 7a+ FLASH
Mur Lombard 7a+ 2nd go
Levitation 7a+ 2nd go
Lady Big Claque 7a+ 2nd go
Quartier Chaud 7a+
Attention Chef d'Oeuvre 7a
Lapin ou Canard 7a
Jet Set 7a
Graviton 7a FLASH
Le Toit du Cul De Chien 7a FLASH
Belle Lurette 7a
Abdolobotomy 7a
Panzer 7a
Vis-a-Vis 7a


Summer of Crush Part 3

Summer of Crush Part 1

So my summer really kicked off around the time I went to Kilnsey with Tom, but it did not stop there... A few days later I was on the plane heading to Imst, Austria to take part in the European Youth Championships. I was convinced that I felt confident and calm, but during both my practice runs on the speed wall I felt rubbish. I'm not sure how I could explain how I felt because it was quite surreal, I think my problem was that I was too calm, I really felt nothing I was at the bottom of the wall in one of the biggest events of the year and I wasn't even scared a tiny bit and that felt wrong. My first qualification attempt was average and I got roughly 10.3 seconds, luckily after this point I realised what I believed was my problem and on my second attempt I felt much better because I forced myself to become more nervous. This paid off and I got a personal best of 9.89 seconds, this cheered me up but also reminded me of my problem with speed climbing. I can't train properly being a good 6 hours away from the nearest speed wall, but on the positive side with the new Awesome Walls Climbing Center opening in Sheffield I should have a place to train very soon within a reasonable distance from me!

Finals Problem 2
Photo: Sandy Carr

Once I got home I had a week of training before heading out for Leeds on Friday night to take part in the Summer Bouldering Youth Open Event on the Saturday! This was the final round of the Junior British Bouldering Championships and I was keen to give it absolutely everything I had. But to make the day even more fun it also happened to be my 18th birthday on the same day! Qualifiers started well and I flashed 7 of the climbs relatively easily, there was only one problem I couldn't do, but luckily I managed to get the bonus points and qualified for the finals in a solid 2nd place. After isolation, we viewed our climbs then the real competition started. I went out for the first one and flashed it quite easily with no drama. On the next climb I made a stupid mistake on my flash attempt and actually got past the crux but just got a foot slightly too high and fell off on an easy move, on my next attempt I did it then went back to isolation. I was finally out for my last climb which I was a bit more worried about as it was long and overhanging and after a day of climbing I wasn't sure how much energy I still had left, but luck was on my side and I threw for the last hold caught the wrong part - a poor sloper. But somehow my hand just stuck, I matched it and finished in 2nd place on the day which put me in 2nd place in the overall results of the British Championships.

Overall Junior Bouldering Championship Podium

The next day I drove to the peak to meet my mum for the day at a cottage we had hired for the week so I could climb with a group of friends known as Team Crush!

Day One

Blueband 7c+

 On Monday morning once everyone had arrived we headed out to Raven Tor as I and Jonny where keen to have a look at Ben's Roof Extension (8a) Once we arrived I got straight onto Ben's Roof and did it with ease, not quite sure why it took me months to do! After that we had a look at the start moves but it was so dark, damp and muddy we lost our psych and sacked it off until we could understand what we where doing. I moved down towards Blueband (7c+) practiced the moves for an hour or so then started having redpoint attempts at it. I was pleased how far I was getting, because last time I tried it there where some moves I was physically not strong enough to do and coming off on the last move gave me confidence that I'm improving and that this climb will go! And that it did, on my next go I finished it! I finished my day there pretty Pleased with doing two 7c+'s!

Day Two

Getting Psyched For Big Air!

On Tuesday we headed to Stanage Plantation, I had been here once a few years ago and was keen just to climb there again, not having any project in mind I followed Billy to Zippy's Traverse (7b) and thanks to Billy having quality beta I sent it soon after. From there I moved over to Deliverance (7b+) but I had the same issue I did a few years back and couldn't do the last move, I sacked it off and we moved down to have a bit of fun with some classic highball boulders. I had previously flashed Crescent Arete (5c) but repeated it just for fun then took one pad over to Not To Be Taken Away (6c) which again had done before and climbed it a couple times before getting psyched for To Be Or Not To Be (7a+) which is a kind of high dyno problem but with a comfortable landing. I managed this is two or three goes and this is where I got a stupid idea... I'm going to blame Tom and Billy for getting me psyched to try this! But I moved towards Big Air which depending on how you look at it is E6 6b or 6c boulder... We shoved our bags in between the rocks, pud pads over them and worked out where the spotters would go. Once I was happy with the fall I got myself psyched and committed for it. I jumped for the pocket and caught it, from there you pull up to a tiny pocket which you can barely fit one finger in get your left foot up high, lock your left arm and catch another pocketey hold. once there you stand and catch a big jug and top out. I was disappointed on how easy it felt actually, for something that is notoriously dangerous I hoped it would have been harder! (Not going to lie, I was pretty scared though)

Day Three

Bouldering at Rubicon

Wednesday saw us headed to Rubicon in the morning, as soon as we arrived I put a pad straight under Kudos (7b) this is because a few years ago I had tried it and just couldn't manage the last move. Unsurprisingly over a couple years I have improved and grown and as soon as I pulled on I topped it, from there I dragged a pad over to The Press (7b+) and within five or ten minutes had managed that as well. Unfortunately it was too hot, I'd like tot think I could have flashed it as well but I guess I will never know. I tried the kneeling start to The Press after which gets 7c+ for a little while but was beginning to grease off the holds so sadly had to give up on it. As a few of the girls where trying A Bigger Prize (7a) I thought I may as well give it a go as I was starting to loose my psych having not got any ticks for a couple hours, after a brief look at it I pulled on and flashed it. I'm still not sure if it is 7a but I've decided to just go with the guide on that one... The next hour or so saw me getting torn to pieces by A Bigger Splash Direct (7b) I found it strangely hard and it wasn't until Jonny gave me some of his beta that it became a possibility and went a little while after. From there Myself and Jonny spent a while working Tsunami (8a) but with the heat it got more and more difficult as the day went on so we gave up, but I am definitely psyched to go back and do it soon. To finish I managed A Bigger Splash (7a+) on my second go, it wasn't pleasant as it has a lot of sharp crimps.
Once everyone became sick of the sharp holds we left and drove to Curbar, we all had a bit of a play around on some problems before we moved to Gorilla Warfare (7a) I had a look at it and thought it was quite easy, so without really paying any attention to it I pulled on and embarrassingly fell off trying to top out because I had no idea where the holds where... But on my second attempt it went easy and I finished for the day wanting to save my skin.

Day Four
Somehow no matter what I usually seem to find myself at Raven Tor, Thursday was one of those days and we headed back there. Once more I had a look Ben's Roof Extension (8a) and surprised myself by finding a good sequence, I got Jonny psyched to try it again and we spent a while working it. We both put in a few good repoint attempts coming off after the crux at the easy last section of the climb. But by the end I was too tired and couldn't cope with the failure anymore, I have spent far too long obsessing over this climb and it really needed to be done. Tired, sore and defeated I left.

Day Five
The plan was to head to Chee Dale on Friday so everyone could get some sport climbing done but it was raining and we heard it was wet still, so once more we ended up at Raven Tor... This really boosted my motivation and as soon as we got there I warmed myself up and pulled straight onto Ben's Roof (7c+) and did it straight away. I got psyched and went straight into the cave to start working the beginning section again. I had several few good attempts and after a while I had my sequence perfect. After a good rest I felt fresh again and went for it, and minute or so later I found myself latching the last hold! I had a feeling of pure happiness wave over myself. It was finally done. I've no reason to become obsessed with those same holds anymore. Even now I can close my eyes and climb the entire problem in my head and I'd imagine it is going to stay stuck in there for quite some time... Eventually I was talked into trying Keen Roof (8b) by Tom Newman as he had been working it during the day. I've always dreamed of climbing this line but I'd never thought it possible for me, I gave the crux moves a few goes and with Tom being kind enough to share his beta I really think it could become a possibility in the future. But not right now, and I think that's the best part I know I'm not ready for it and that gives me comfort that I won't become obsessed all over again.

And that's about it for the week! Cheers Tom Bonnert, Jonny White, Naomi Tilley, Billy Ridal, Flo Tilley, Sarah Pashley, Tara Hayes, Tash Allcock and Gracie Martin for all coming and making it an amazing week! I'm heading off to Font next Saturday with some of the same awesome group, I've already got a good ticklist in mind so we shall see how that goes!

Ticks:
Ben's Roof Extension 8a
Blueband 7c+
Ben's Roof 7c+ (Repeat)
The Press 7b+
A Bigger Splash 7b
Kudos 7b
Zippy's Traverse 7b
Too Hard For Mark Leach Footless 7b
A Bigger Splash 7a+ (2nd go)
To Be Or Not To Be 7a+
Gorilla Warfare 7a (2nd go)
A Bigger Prize 7a (Flash)
Not To Be Taken Away 6c (Repeat)
Big Air E6 6b / 6c (Flash)

Summer of Crush Part 2