The day started off at 6am, we got ready and stuffed all our things into the car leaving the house at about half 7. After a couple hours in the car we arrived at the channel tunnel and met George Morris there who insisted we had our photo taken with the Easter bunny as someone was in a costume giving out free cream eggs. Unfortunately there seemed to be massive delays at the tunnel and we were there for almost two hours! Eventually the train left and we got to France at about 4 then we had the long drive to our gite...
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| Fontainebleau! |
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| Buildering in the village |
Day 2
My first day climbing here, and it was amazing! We went to Apremonte and as soon as I got there I felt overwhelmed, the amount of boulders everywhere, the people climbing and how big it all was. It was so much to take in, so I warmed up and got on some really easy problems then moved onto things that looked a bit harder. I got on a climb, managed to flash it and thought "oh that was hard, what grade is it" so I got a guide out and found out it was about 5b. At that point I was quite worried, if I had to push to do a 5b, how would the rest of the week go? I moved on to a harder looking problem to the left of it called Jiu Jitsu (6a+) I had seen some people working it and thought it looked fun so I asked if I could have a go, and again got worried because it felt so hard. But I pulled on and managed to get to the last few holds, but I couldn't see my feet. So the only natural thing I could think of was to campus it until I could get my feet high enough so i could top out. I flashed it, but felt pretty stupid in the process...
After that we all started working the sit start to Légitimate Adhérance (7a). I had a good flash attempt and almost topped it and after a few more goes I managed to finish it. I felt like I was finally managing to get to grips with the climbing here. Soon after Duncan and George managed it too and we all moved on.
The next climb was quite an odd one, it's called Retablissement (7a) and after some route reading and advice I managed to flash it! I was so happy, but not everyone else was as lucky as me as it had a awkward and scary top out... But after an hour Duncan and George managed it too, which good.
From there we moved to try Le Petit Phoque (7b) this was quite an awkward climb, starting sat on the floor pulling off tiny crimps and a heal hook, then slapping round a corner to more crimps. It took a couple trys but after a while I managed to top it out.
Finally I decided to try Sitting Bull (7c). It goes through a roof off awkward holds and finishing by mantling off terrible slopers. Everyone else decided not to try it after seeing me fail trying to work it out for half an hour. But after two hours I worked out all the beta and managed it! My first 7c outdoors!
Ticks:
Jiu Jitsu 6a+ FLASH
Légitime Adhérance assis 7a
Retablissement 7a FLASH
Le Petit Phoque 7a
Sitting Bull 7c
Day 3
The next day didn't start out great, I couldn't seem to climb anything in the morning and eventually we went to La Canche aux Merciers and I flashed La Grande Marche (7a+). I spent a little while working the 7b extension where you climb the crack then instead of topping out you traverse left across the lip with a series of heel hooks then top out on slopers. But unfortunately, being the boulderer I am, as soon as I got to the crux I was pumped and couldn't pull anymore. Soon after though Tash managed to climb La Grande Marche too which was her first 7a+ so with that fantastic effort we moved Drei Zinnen to work Diversion (7b). As soon as I saw this line I was stoked to send it, it just looked perfect. Small little pockets up a steep wall, it took a while to work out the beta which suited me through the beginning then I had to figure out how I cold top out as I couldn't do it the normal way. In the end I settled with bringing my heel up next to my hand and locking off to reach the final pocket which was basically the end nice from there it was 2 easy moves of what were basically jugs. A little while after Duncan managed to top it too and we both left pretty pleased with ourselves!
Ticks:
La Grande Marche 7a+ FLASH
Diversion 7b
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| Extensions of La Grande Marche 7b |
Day 4
Gorge aux Chats was the destination the next day! After running around to warm up then getting lost in the forest trying to find everyone again since I ran too far I got on some easy stuff. after i felt warm I decided to work Rubis Sur l'Ongle (7b+). I quickly worked out how to do every move but just couldn't manage it, especially since it was getting warmer and warmer. We realised eventually that now it was warmer and the sun was on the rock that I probably won't be possible for us at the time, so we decided to come another day a little bit earlier to get on it before it got hot! So next we all got on Sa Pelle al Logis (7a), Duncan and I quickly flashed it so I moved on to try Opera Tchetchene Raccourci (7a). After one attempt and realising the top out was the crux I tried it again five minutes later and topped it. We left there and went to Bas Cuvier where I quickly flashed Helicoptere (7a), I can understand why it's a bit of a dangerous climb after seeing countless people fall and nearly break their legs! I spent a long time working Carnage (7b+) after that but it just didn't seem to happen! I was so frustrated, I was really loosing my head. Not long after I'd given up hope Duncan managed it and due to my competitive nature this finished me for the day. I was a typical grumpy teenager. So apologies to everyone about that! I left with George to try some other climbs since he was having an equally sucky day but again we had no luck. So finally I tried La Marie Rose (6a), which is probably the hardest 6a going and managed it second go.
Ticks:
Sa Pelle al Logis 7a FLASH
Opera Tchetchene Raccourci 7a
Helicoptere 7a FLASH
La Marie Rose 6a
Day 5
I finally picked up and managed some decent hard stuff, we headed to Buthiers and got on Magic Bus (7b). This really got me psyched, it was a short roof climb involving some sneaky footwork. After one attempt getting to the crux I tried the move in isolation then got on it again from the start. I pulled onto the jugs, reach my right hand to the next big undercut, walked my feet around the wall so I could reach crimp with my left hand then got a sweet double toe hook, locked my left arm then reached and caught the next big undercut. From there I pulled my feet up dead pointed to a big flat hold,whacked a heel hook up then topped out. Sweet. All in about fifteen minutes too! Again a little while after Duncan managed it too, and with the others having no luck we moved on again to Bas Cuvier. This time I was calm, and having no expectations I warmed up again and decided to try Carnage and see if I could get it. I had one attempt and felt strong so I rested, pulled on again and managed it. Just goes to show how much having a clear head can help.
Ticks:
Magic bus 7b
Carnage 7b+
Day 6
Today was the day! I was going to do Rubis Sur l'Ongle, no exceptions. We arrived, warmed up and I practiced the moves just to refresh my mind and body on how it was done. After a couple hours though I still had no luck... I was once again getting stressed out and couldn't cope. I did t get was going wrong! I rested at least five minutes between attempts, I was keeping warm, I just did not understand! To top things off one of my finger tips split and I started to bleed too dried it up tried again and still no luck! And Mother Nature was not on my side either as although it was our first cloudy day the sun started peaking through and warming the climb up too much! I'd had it. I wanted the climb so much, I just couldn't handle it I felt on the verge of tears. After hearing George say something, I can't even remember what it reminded me of the song Hey Ya by Outkast. Before the trip I had been driving my friends nuts playing the song and had even got it on my phone. I checked and the crag was mostly empty to I thought why not, gave him my phone and got the song blasting. I chalked up and pulled on, realising instantly i was smiling. After a short fight I caught the crux hold managed to stick the next few moves after some quite odd power shouting and soon found myself standing on top of the boulder! I can't think of a more hilariously epic movement I've ever had whilst climbing. Again, a fine example of what being calm and generally being happy can do for you.
We moved to Isatis next to try Iceberg (7c) but with my sore skin and weird style of climbing It had I quickly decided it wasn't for me. After a recommendation from Nick to try L'Arrache Coeur (7c) we went t have a look and I realised it was the climb for me. It was like a typical indoor hard pulling climb (although it was a little bit soft...) It only took about four or five goes which was even better! It started on two jugs, I dead pointed to another jug, worked my feet up locked off and caught a crimp with my left hand you then twist your hip into the wall and get an awkward knee bar in and reach round a small roof to another crimp. This move felt massive, and to top it off it was very high and not even the crux! From there you sort your feet out catch another crimp then jump to a sloper round a corner then campus to the jug at the top. I felt fantastic! My second 7c of the trip!
Ticks:
Rubis Sur l'Ongle 7b+
L'Arrache Coeur 7c
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| L'Arrache Coeur 7c |
Day 7
The final day, we decided to spend the whole day at Bas Cuvier. Started on Duroxamine (6c), it was vile. Apparently a classic. I guess everyone is entitled to their own opinion, and my opinion is it was polished choss. Managed it 2nd go but it was not that enjoyable. We moved on to the man area and Duncan's aim was to do Carnage Assis (7c). I had already wrote it off and thought it wasn't worth my time since the stand felt hard enough, but like I said - I'm competitive. So I couldn't resist. We set to work, sit down, pull on, climb up, fall off, repeat. Eventually we started getting close and eventually Duncan managed it, making it look easy in the process. Good effort. Now I just couldn't leave it. But I'd learnt for the previous days, there's no point getting down! I stayed chilled and just carries on trying, eventually more of my finger tips started to split and at me point I did start to bleed... Not good. I cleaned the holds and tapped up my fingers to stop it happening again. I would not make any friends bleeding over those holds. I realised now I probably wouldn't do it with my tapped up fingers as the pocket was too temperamental. I pulled on and couldn't even hold the pocket. I tried again five minutes later and to my surprise and I'd imagine everyone else's I actually topped it! I was happy now. The rest of the day didn't matter anymore, I'd done the one climb that was on my ticklist that would actually be possible for me! But I ought about it for a while and realised I'd nothing to loose now, why not try everything possibly could? Maybe get some more 7a's even? I searched and tried several until I found La Daube (7a) and after a couple goes it was sent, but it obviously wasn't popular as it had hardly any chalk on it... Next I got on L'Araignee (7a) and quickly sent it. By this point I called it a day, I was tried and happy (Also my fingers couldn't really take any more abuse).
Ticks:
Duroxamine 6c
Carnage Assis 7c
La Daube 7a
L'Araignee 7a
All in all it was a fantastic trip and I loved it. Right now I can't think of a place I'd rather be in the world than the beautiful forest of Fontainebleau. I'm looking forward to another trip there in the summer with another group of friends now, but in the meantime I still need to send Ben's Roof (7c+) at Raven Tor! Next up is the second round of the Junior British Bouldering Championships in Glasgow!
I'd like to say thanks to Duncan Fisher and his parents for taking me with them, Nick Reyner and Debbie Corbett for showing us around and giving us beta and anyone else who I might be missing!
