So my summer really kicked off around the time I went to Kilnsey with Tom, but it did not stop there... A few days later I was on the plane heading to Imst, Austria to take part in the European Youth Championships. I was convinced that I felt confident and calm, but during both my practice runs on the speed wall I felt rubbish. I'm not sure how I could explain how I felt because it was quite surreal, I think my problem was that I was too calm, I really felt nothing I was at the bottom of the wall in one of the biggest events of the year and I wasn't even scared a tiny bit and that felt wrong. My first qualification attempt was average and I got roughly 10.3 seconds, luckily after this point I realised what I believed was my problem and on my second attempt I felt much better because I forced myself to become more nervous. This paid off and I got a personal best of 9.89 seconds, this cheered me up but also reminded me of my problem with speed climbing. I can't train properly being a good 6 hours away from the nearest speed wall, but on the positive side with the new Awesome Walls Climbing Center opening in Sheffield I should have a place to train very soon within a reasonable distance from me!
Finals Problem 2
Photo: Sandy Carr
Once I got home I had a week of training before heading out for Leeds on Friday night to take part in the Summer Bouldering Youth Open Event on the Saturday! This was the final round of the Junior British Bouldering Championships and I was keen to give it absolutely everything I had. But to make the day even more fun it also happened to be my 18th birthday on the same day! Qualifiers started well and I flashed 7 of the climbs relatively easily, there was only one problem I couldn't do, but luckily I managed to get the bonus points and qualified for the finals in a solid 2nd place. After isolation, we viewed our climbs then the real competition started. I went out for the first one and flashed it quite easily with no drama. On the next climb I made a stupid mistake on my flash attempt and actually got past the crux but just got a foot slightly too high and fell off on an easy move, on my next attempt I did it then went back to isolation. I was finally out for my last climb which I was a bit more worried about as it was long and overhanging and after a day of climbing I wasn't sure how much energy I still had left, but luck was on my side and I threw for the last hold caught the wrong part - a poor sloper. But somehow my hand just stuck, I matched it and finished in 2nd place on the day which put me in 2nd place in the overall results of the British Championships.
Overall Junior Bouldering Championship Podium
The next day I drove to the peak to meet my mum for the day at a cottage we had hired for the week so I could climb with a group of friends known as Team Crush!
Day One
Blueband 7c+
On Monday morning once everyone had arrived we headed out to Raven Tor as I and Jonny where keen to have a look at Ben's Roof Extension (8a) Once we arrived I got straight onto Ben's Roof and did it with ease, not quite sure why it took me months to do! After that we had a look at the start moves but it was so dark, damp and muddy we lost our psych and sacked it off until we could understand what we where doing. I moved down towards Blueband (7c+) practiced the moves for an hour or so then started having redpoint attempts at it. I was pleased how far I was getting, because last time I tried it there where some moves I was physically not strong enough to do and coming off on the last move gave me confidence that I'm improving and that this climb will go! And that it did, on my next go I finished it! I finished my day there pretty Pleased with doing two 7c+'s!
Day Two
Getting Psyched For Big Air!
On Tuesday we headed to Stanage Plantation, I had been here once a few years ago and was keen just to climb there again, not having any project in mind I followed Billy to Zippy's Traverse (7b) and thanks to Billy having quality beta I sent it soon after. From there I moved over to Deliverance (7b+) but I had the same issue I did a few years back and couldn't do the last move, I sacked it off and we moved down to have a bit of fun with some classic highball boulders. I had previously flashed Crescent Arete (5c) but repeated it just for fun then took one pad over to Not To Be Taken Away (6c) which again had done before and climbed it a couple times before getting psyched for To Be Or Not To Be (7a+) which is a kind of high dyno problem but with a comfortable landing. I managed this is two or three goes and this is where I got a stupid idea... I'm going to blame Tom and Billy for getting me psyched to try this! But I moved towards Big Air which depending on how you look at it is E6 6b or 6c boulder... We shoved our bags in between the rocks, pud pads over them and worked out where the spotters would go. Once I was happy with the fall I got myself psyched and committed for it. I jumped for the pocket and caught it, from there you pull up to a tiny pocket which you can barely fit one finger in get your left foot up high, lock your left arm and catch another pocketey hold. once there you stand and catch a big jug and top out. I was disappointed on how easy it felt actually, for something that is notoriously dangerous I hoped it would have been harder! (Not going to lie, I was pretty scared though)
Day Three
Bouldering at Rubicon
Wednesday saw us headed to Rubicon in the morning, as soon as we arrived I put a pad straight under Kudos (7b) this is because a few years ago I had tried it and just couldn't manage the last move. Unsurprisingly over a couple years I have improved and grown and as soon as I pulled on I topped it, from there I dragged a pad over to The Press (7b+) and within five or ten minutes had managed that as well. Unfortunately it was too hot, I'd like tot think I could have flashed it as well but I guess I will never know. I tried the kneeling start to The Press after which gets 7c+ for a little while but was beginning to grease off the holds so sadly had to give up on it. As a few of the girls where trying A Bigger Prize (7a) I thought I may as well give it a go as I was starting to loose my psych having not got any ticks for a couple hours, after a brief look at it I pulled on and flashed it. I'm still not sure if it is 7a but I've decided to just go with the guide on that one... The next hour or so saw me getting torn to pieces by A Bigger Splash Direct (7b) I found it strangely hard and it wasn't until Jonny gave me some of his beta that it became a possibility and went a little while after. From there Myself and Jonny spent a while working Tsunami (8a) but with the heat it got more and more difficult as the day went on so we gave up, but I am definitely psyched to go back and do it soon. To finish I managed A Bigger Splash (7a+) on my second go, it wasn't pleasant as it has a lot of sharp crimps.
Once everyone became sick of the sharp holds we left and drove to Curbar, we all had a bit of a play around on some problems before we moved to Gorilla Warfare (7a) I had a look at it and thought it was quite easy, so without really paying any attention to it I pulled on and embarrassingly fell off trying to top out because I had no idea where the holds where... But on my second attempt it went easy and I finished for the day wanting to save my skin.
Day Four
Somehow no matter what I usually seem to find myself at Raven Tor, Thursday was one of those days and we headed back there. Once more I had a look Ben's Roof Extension (8a) and surprised myself by finding a good sequence, I got Jonny psyched to try it again and we spent a while working it. We both put in a few good repoint attempts coming off after the crux at the easy last section of the climb. But by the end I was too tired and couldn't cope with the failure anymore, I have spent far too long obsessing over this climb and it really needed to be done. Tired, sore and defeated I left.
Day Five
The plan was to head to Chee Dale on Friday so everyone could get some sport climbing done but it was raining and we heard it was wet still, so once more we ended up at Raven Tor... This really boosted my motivation and as soon as we got there I warmed myself up and pulled straight onto Ben's Roof (7c+) and did it straight away. I got psyched and went straight into the cave to start working the beginning section again. I had several few good attempts and after a while I had my sequence perfect. After a good rest I felt fresh again and went for it, and minute or so later I found myself latching the last hold! I had a feeling of pure happiness wave over myself. It was finally done. I've no reason to become obsessed with those same holds anymore. Even now I can close my eyes and climb the entire problem in my head and I'd imagine it is going to stay stuck in there for quite some time... Eventually I was talked into trying Keen Roof (8b) by Tom Newman as he had been working it during the day. I've always dreamed of climbing this line but I'd never thought it possible for me, I gave the crux moves a few goes and with Tom being kind enough to share his beta I really think it could become a possibility in the future. But not right now, and I think that's the best part I know I'm not ready for it and that gives me comfort that I won't become obsessed all over again.
And that's about it for the week! Cheers Tom Bonnert, Jonny White, Naomi Tilley, Billy Ridal, Flo Tilley, Sarah Pashley, Tara Hayes, Tash Allcock and Gracie Martin for all coming and making it an amazing week! I'm heading off to Font next Saturday with some of the same awesome group, I've already got a good ticklist in mind so we shall see how that goes!
Ticks:
Ben's Roof Extension 8a
Blueband 7c+
Ben's Roof 7c+ (Repeat)
The Press 7b+
A Bigger Splash 7b
Kudos 7b
Zippy's Traverse 7b
Too Hard For Mark Leach Footless 7b
A Bigger Splash 7a+ (2nd go)
To Be Or Not To Be 7a+
Gorilla Warfare 7a (2nd go)
A Bigger Prize 7a (Flash)
Not To Be Taken Away 6c (Repeat)
Big Air E6 6b / 6c (Flash)
