Bouderer On A Rope!

So over the last week I shifted disciplines just to change things around a bit. It all started by being asked if I wanted to go to Chee Dale with Alex Norton (If you haven't heard of him yet you will one day) as he hasn't really got much experience climbing outdoors, and being me I find it hard to say no to trips out. But around the same time I was asked by Tom Bonnert if I fancied going to Kilnsey with him for a few days, once again I agreed to go. I realised having done nothing but bouldering and speed training for a year now it was going to be pretty tough, I was still excited for it though. And to all of my sport climbing friends who may read this, no laughing!
So on Sunday I got up early and cycled to meet Alex and his dad Bill then we drove to Loughborough to pick up Rich Winters. Once we arrived at the crag I was in awe at how beautiful it was, even the walk in was just fantastic and I normally hate the walks into crags! We eyed up some routes and got started, Alex who has only done sport climbing a couple times before was very excited and wanted to go up first. The plan was to get on Clarion Call 7a, so he started off confidently got the first clip in and was instantly stuck by a slightly large reach off a tiny hold. After a few minutes of fumbling he came down frustrated with himself then I got on, pulled through the move and confidently climbed the rest of it and clipped the chain. I was pleased that I flashed it (Although a little gutted I couldn't take the onsight) because I didn't have much confidence on leading due of my lack of stamina. Next up I went on Big Zipper 7b, I had spent a while eyeing it up and thought I might even have it in me to onsight it, I climbed slowly and cautiously up until the crux at the end which involved breaking out right off undercuts and reaching up to average crimps before getting to nice big pinches to finish. But when I got to the undercuts, even though I just took a massive rest on some jugs I was boxed out of my mind, pulled up to the crimps but couldn't hold on any longer and fell. After a short rest on the rope I pulled on and finished the route, once lowered off I was shattered and needed a long rest before trying it again. I pulled on for my second attempt thinking I had it in my head as to what I would do on the route, yet got myself confused at an easier lower section and wasted time. Once passed there I rested on the jugs before the crux and moved into it confidently getting through it and reaching up to the good pinch, from there I caught the next one but was far too tired to make a bigger move to the final jug and fell. Gutted I rested for about another hour, got my sequence in my head and pulled on for a final time. This time I climbed fast and smoothly and topped it, I was shocked that I didn't feel too tired once I finished it. But I still took a big rest before my final climb which was Whose Line Is It Anyway 7a+, I'd watched loads of people try this throughout the day and after my rest I was sure I could flash it. I pulled on and passed the first clip then slowed down immensely, getting confused at the strange sequence and large cross overs. After fighting my way up I got to the final crux and barely caught the undercuts to pull up to average crimps, from there I took what was probably the most uncomfortable rest I've ever had and moved onto the final couple of moves, I crossed over to a crimp, caught a side pull then threw for the final jug but was so boxed out of my mind my arms just flailed about in the air and I fell taking a massive fall half way down the wall (Which was extremely fun!) Too tired to continue I lowered off and we packed up to leave. I was pleased with what I managed considering I haven't been sport climbing in a year, and have had less than five sessions lead climbing indoors in the past year too.
Next trip was to Kilnsey with Tom, I was extremely psyched for this. I had been last year with a group of friends, managed a few good ticks but never anything too hard and as we had four days there I hoped to get a good hard route done. Wednesday we drove to Manchester to pick up keys for Tom's house at uni next year then we went to Rock Over for a short bouldering session. It might have been far too hot really and we only climbed for an hour or so, but I managed to flash a V8, V7 and V6 which was cool. The next day we left and eventually arrived at the crag at about midday, we warmed up on the Bulgelette 6b+ which almost happened to be the start of The Bulge 8a which was Tom's goal for the trip. He had many heartbreakers on it last year coming off the last move and had the sequence completely wired now and was keen to get it done. Not long and he did which was fantastic, I also had a go last year but only one which I got relatively far up but then fell and worked the rest of the moves. So I was also keen to get on it and see how I fared, especially since my endurance is non existent and its a 26 meter epic. I got the moves in my head again and started going for redpoints, I had a few alright goes and on my last attempt I fell off going for one of the last jugs in the overhang. After a recommendation from Tom I got on Smooth Torquer 7b at the far end of the crag, he thought I could onsight it since it was a short bouldery route up jugs. I got on and after a short fight at the start relaxed a bit and managed to onsight it!

Keeping our Evolv shoes nice and fresh at the end of each day!

We finished up and went to the campsite, got the tent out and cooked dinner, sausages and veg. Nice. The next day I was psyched to get The Bulge finished, not only because I don't like having projects for too long but also because we had minimal quickdraws and Tom couldn't climb anything until I got it done! I warmed up then had a good redpoint attempt but still not quite there, coming off right at the top. After a rest I had another go and tragically fell off with my fingers tickling the final hold, frustrated I had another rest before I finally got back on. I felt like I climbed really smoothly and thanks to that got to the top, clipped the chain and stripped the route. My first 8a! After watching a few people try WYSIWYG 7b and the extension, Dead Calm 8a I got keen to try WYSIWYG again. I had one attempt last year but absolutely hated it and never bothered trying to finish it. So I pulled on and luckily managed it, but barely. At least I knew I still did not like it and I knew it wasn't worth wasting my time on Dead Calm. During this time Tom had been working the moves to The Thumb 8a and he got pretty keen to finish it during the trip. The next day we arrived at the crag and being the weekend it was pretty busy, but also the weather had changed. It was no longer ridiculously hot so all the strong people showed up, there was actually a wait to get on True North 8c! Tom spent the day working The Thumb and as all our clips where in that I decided to give Full Tilt 8b a bash as others had the clips in it for working True North. It felt so amazing to get on a route where I really really had to push to even manage the moves, from all my bouldering I've mostly not struggled on moves on routes lately I normally just get boxed and fall. So this was a real eye opener that I can do hard moves while on a rope still, I'm looking forward to coming back over the next few years and hopefully get it finished one day! Unfortunately Tom didn't manage The Thumb but he was getting very close, I think we were both sure it would go the next day! We got up the next day, packed our tent away and drove to the crag one final time, Tom warmed up on The Bulgelette and started going for redpoints on The Thumb again once he had flash pump. He had a couple attempts and on the second got past his high point but just missed a hold and fell. Gutted he had a rest and I went up Last Gasp Finish 7b, I was keen to onsight it and after getting past the hard finish and almost fully recovering at the huge rest half way up it. From there I continued pulling each move and eventually clipped the chain, I was so psyched, I could just feel myself getting fitter each day. After a rest Tom got on The Thumb again and managed it! Good trip for him, getting two 8a's! After a recommendation from someone on our first day we went to try Hardy Annual 7b, Tom was still a bit tired so I went for the onsight. I really really fought for this one, the start was absolutely desperate, felt like a V6 boulder into a massive no hands rest on a ledge separated by two or three awkward moves to jugs from there onward until you clipped the chain. I just about managed it and was pretty stoked the finish my trip with that! Tom also had a go and managed it second attempt which was sweet.
We finished the trip there and headed home! It was so much fun being out there again and doing sport. I realised how much I do enjoy sport climbing outdoors, but I really feel the need to get above a pad again and do some hard bouldering! Got the European Championships this week and I leave on Wednesday, so I'm psyched for that!

Cheers for the trip Tom! I imagine he will write a blog about his huge success at some point and you can check that out here - http://www.tombonnertclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/ (Or just check it out anyway)

Ticks -
Smooth Torquer 7b (Onsight)
The Bulge 8a
WYSIWYG 7b (2nd Go)
Last Gasp Finish 7b (Onsight)
Hardy Annual 7b (Onsight)