Summer of Crush Part 2

After a weeks rest from the Peak District I had packed my bags once again and was heading to Fontainebleau for the second time this year. Before leaving I had set myself some goals while there and unfortunately they didn't go to plan, I have been trying to understand why and in the end I think it was a mix of me not being physically strong enough and it being way too hot for me. But even though I did not manage what I had hoped for it was an amazing trip and I am proud of what I achieved in the end.

Day One
Not long after arriving at our Gite we had decided to head out to a nearby crag and have a short session before heading home and going to bed as we had been travelling all day. The nearest place we found was a small place called Rocher Greau. It was dark once we arrived and the bugs had started to appear and where biting us left, right and center. I had a play at some 6's which where fun then tried my hand at classic 7c called Megalithe. I gave it a good few goes and eventually found some progression on it, but with the bugs attacking me, tiredness from the days drive and the rock feeling greasy from the heat I eventually had to call it a day and not long after that we all left.

Day 2

Partage 8a+

Buthiers was the destination as I strongly believed everyone would have fun trying Magic Bus 7b which I had done in Easter during my last trip. Once we arrived put the pads under I gave it a go and got my foot sequence wrong and fell on the last hard move. After a couple minutes rest I got on it again and sent it, soon after this Jonny and Tom also managed it got their first good tick for the week. Not long after this I went on a hunt to find Partage 8a+ which I knew was nearby. I think I knew I'd never do it, but I was still psyched to give it a good go. Once I found it I realised there was a 7a next to it called Attention Chef d'Oeuvre which looked like a cool line. Once I found them I ran back to the others to see if I could convince anyone to come down and try them and to see if I could take some of our pads too. Jonny and Tom followed and I ran on ahead with a pad way too keen to get on the 7a. I arrived got my boots on, chalked up and pulled on with only one pad... Being a relatively highball line this probably wasn't the best of ideas and as I climbed and threw for the last hold I realised it was, slipping out of the slopper part of it I yelped and fell to the floor landing one foot on the pad the other on the floor. Jonny and Tom rushed round expecting to find me broken on the floor yet somehow I was fine, I tested my foot and was shocked. I think from now on I might try and be a bit more sensible when it comes to pads and spotters... After a few more attempts I eventually sent it and then moved on to give Partage a few attempts, I knew I couldn't spend long on it as my skin was really poor and already shredding. I worked out some beta so I could actually get off the floor but with the tiny holds and it being too hot I couldn't get any further, I think this is one I'm going to save for when it's colder. From there we went on a hunt to find  more boulders and eventually came across Lady Big Claque 7a, which was a pretty inspiring overhanging line slapping round corners to catch the holds. I pulled on and just missed a hold near the top, after a short rest I got on and managed it fairly easily.

Day Three 

L'Ange Gardien 7c

We headed to Bas Cuvier and after trying my hand at many climbs I eventually found Quartier Chaud 7a+ which climbed a highball arete with a dodgey landing. After a few attempts I managed to get past where I had been falling and pulled up to the thankfully easy top out. I gained some motivation after this and tried the highball 7c slab around the corner from it called L'Ange Gardien I was constantly finding progression on this getting higher each time until eventually I could climb no higher, I struggled to hold on to the tiny holds and found my feet slipping off the microscopic features. I eventually realised I was wasting valuable skin and gave up, but not before flashing a couple 6's around the corner from it...







Day Four
We started out heading to Rocher Canon to give Levitation 7a+ an attempt, I was super keen to flash this and spent the evening before watching videos and finding out everything I could about it. After getting lost trying to find it we eventually came across it and started to warm up. I watched everyone give it a few goes and worked out what I thought was the best way. I pulled up and instantly knew I was not warm enough, I climbed shakily and felt tense and when throwing around the top for a pocket to top out on I slipped and got frustrated with myself. After a rest and some shaking out I once again pulled on and got it second attempt.
After a while we gave up looking for problems and went to Franchard Isatis where I managed Mur Lombard 7a+ on my second attempt, it was a fantastic vertical wall with thin holds going straight up it It would have been amazing to flash but I was still pleased to manage such a fantastic line. After that I managed Lapin ou Canard 7a 2nd attempt and shortly after flashed a strange 6c called La Power-Lolotte / le Surplomb Statique.

Day Five

Le Toit du Cul De Chien 7a

After another lazy morning, we got up and headed to Cul De Chien where we headed straight to Le Toit du Cul De Chien, also known as Cul De Chien Roof 7a. After seriously warming up (I was very commited to flashing this) we sorted the pads out and Jonny was first up. I was paying attention to every move he made as much as possible and sadly he slipped, but I believe he has done it before so it wasn't too bad. Next I stood up to it, pulled on and felt amazed at the moves, they where fantastic. After reaching round the lip I realised I was better off campusing as there where no good foot holds really. I'm particularly proud of this flash. We tried a supposedly 7a slab called Belle Lurette further back a little while later which I disappointingly got 2nd go. After getting bored at Cul De Chien we walked back to Rocher Aux Sabots with the aim of trying Jet Set 7a and Graviton 7a. We all had a bit of trouble working out the footwork for Jet Set but once we discovered it almost everyone managed it. What a brilliant climb! Next we moved to Graviton, where I was once again, keen for the flash and after watching everyone on it for a while I gave it a go. It was a real struggle, I felt my forearms pump out on it as I clearly hadn't paid enough attention, but luckily I gave it a good fight and came out on top. I spent a long time working a 7c on the back of the Graviton boulder (Can't seem to find the name unfortunately) and felt very close, but I've came to realise the last move is actually the crux of the boulder. And I have a Feeling lots of people have "came close" to finishing that problem... Moving on from my disappointment with it we walked up to Bioethique 7a+ which I felt must be soft as I flashed it with ease.

Day Six
We headed back to Franchard Isatis as there was lots for everyone to do there and it turned out to be a good decision because everyone got something done! First up on my list was Ah Plus Facile 7a+ which I couldn't quite manage a couple days prior. But after some more working I came out with a better sequence for myself and managed it. After I managed two other 7a's called Panzer and Abdolobotmoy. Later that night, me Tom, Tash and Jen headed out to Drei Zennin to have a spot of night bouldering. The aim was to find Diversion, 7b that I did in Easter so Tash could try and finish it and Tom and Jen could give it a go. Somehow my navigational skills turned super human and in pitch black late at night I led us straight to the climb! We where all in shock as my skills at finding climbs so far had been below average... After spending a while working it out I got it down again and cruised it and soon after Tom managed it too. Tash got a lot further and Jen put up a good fight, hopefully they will get in next time.

Day Seven
The aim was to go to 95.2, it took us a while but we eventually found it but it was so hot and had very limited problems. I managed Retour Aux Sources 7a after a few attempts which I was pleased about, it was tough in the heat. From there we just sort of walked around and got lost, eventually finding ourselves at the edge of an area known as Rocher Des Souris where we found an amazing Morpho problem called Vis-a-Vis, words can't describe this climb if I'm honest it looked easy, the holds where huge. But it was just such an odd climb! I'm pleased to have even managed it! If you ever manage to find it, I highly recommend it. Finally we came across a small boulder with a 6c+ called Yoga on it. I wasn't too keen for it but the 7b I was working ended up being too hard and I managed to flash Yoga instead! To end the trip we all agreed to go out night bouldering at Canche Aux Mercies, where one of my nemesis's from the easter trip lurked. La Grande Marche Prolongee 7b. I thought it would be a good sport for everyone as the original version of this problem was a great 7a+ for everyone. Props to Jonny for not only flashing the 7a+ but then stepping it up and flashing the 7b too, It got me so psyched as I could not manage the 7b at all but after seeing him manage it, I pulled on and topped it! A good success to end the trip with!

And that concluded to amazing trip to The wonderful forest of Fontainebleau. Overall I was quite pleased with what I managed, it would have been nice to get some harder climbs but you can't have everything you want so I'm going to take pleasure in the fact I had a great holiday with some amazing friends!

Ticklist:

La Grande Marche Prolongee 7b
Ah Plus Facile 7a+
Bioethique 7a+ FLASH
Mur Lombard 7a+ 2nd go
Levitation 7a+ 2nd go
Lady Big Claque 7a+ 2nd go
Quartier Chaud 7a+
Attention Chef d'Oeuvre 7a
Lapin ou Canard 7a
Jet Set 7a
Graviton 7a FLASH
Le Toit du Cul De Chien 7a FLASH
Belle Lurette 7a
Abdolobotomy 7a
Panzer 7a
Vis-a-Vis 7a


Summer of Crush Part 3